If you’re using a bucket, be sure to agitate the hide a couple of times a day. You can either soak your hide in a creek (tied to a large rock or tree so it doesn’t float away), or a bucket with a rock to weigh it down. It loosens the hair and softens the membrane layer, which will be the next part you scrape off. Soaking a hide after fleshing is a process of controlled rotting. Watch the videos below for more detailed instruction on making your own fleshing tool, and the process of fleshing a hide Scrape a small area at a time with your scraping tool to remove all of the flesh. We show you exactly how to make a scraping beam in our online hide tanning class. ![]() Spread your hide on the beam, making sure it’s flat and not folded. Once your hide is deemed worthy and has been trimmed up, it’s time to flesh. These areas can be hard to work and it’s best to just get rid of them right off the bat. Next, trim off any dangly bits and the very thickest part of the neck. Unless all you want to make is lashing, a holey hide is not ideal. Look out for knife marks that penetrate into the gray layer between the flesh and skin. Lacerations that don’t go all the way through the hide can become holes later. ![]() Learning how to tan a hide is a lot of work, and it doesn’t make sense to undertake this effort if you’re starting out with a poor-quality hide. The first four steps we listed above prepare your hide to be worked. Preparing your hide for tanning: Evaluating, Trimming, Fleshing and Soaking
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